Bocay – Students of My Heart

Every man needs their Indiana Jones moment, mine came during a trip to Nicaragua last year. Not only was I in a foreign country, but also an area which was rarely visited by foreigners, and had the threatening rumors of rebel groups hiding in the mountains. It was in the setting of San Jose de Bocay, that I first saw the towering Piedras de Levay (Rocks of Levay) sitting on a mountain towering alluringly over the surrounding countryside.

Las Piedras de Levay

Las Piedras de Levay, set in the dense jungle of Northern Nicaragua.

The reason I first came to this country was part volunteering, part adventure, but predominantly to hone my poor Spanish which I had somehow been able to pass to intermediate level with in university a year earlier. In this mindset I was lucky enough to work in with a local English teacher Alberto, I worked with him on a weekly regime of education and travel.

The town of San Jose de Bocay is situated on Rio Bocay

Looking out over Rio Bocay and the countryside which surrounds San Jose de Bocay.

As part of this I visited the town of Bocay every weekend for two months straight making the 8 hour bus ride there from Jinotega each Friday and then returning on the Sunday for the same time. A trip filled with Latino music and English classics, which the locals didn’t seem to understand bu enjoyed all the same. Every now and then a vendor would hop on the bus with there fresh, or not so fresh food, depending on your luck.

Looking over the cobbled main street towards the Sandinista flagged hill.

Looking over the cobbled main street towards the Sandinista flagged hill.

San Jose de Bocay is a small rural town in the northern cordilleras of Nicaragua situated in the province of Jinotega. The town itself is situated beside Rio Bocay, a large river which can be crossed by canoe. Across the river is a hill which bears a giant Sandinista flag, acting both as a landmark and as a statement of who rules the land. The economy of the region is based primarily on cattle trade, along with the production of cafe, cacao, and frijoles (beans).

During these weekends we would spend the nights working with local English university students, who were becoming the first people to speak English at a conversational level, which was inspiring enough in itself. What had more impact was Saturday, each Saturday students would come to school for there one day of school a week, with some walking around 5 hours to get there at 7 am for the start of classes.

The teacher leading English classes on Saturday morning.

Juan Alberto “The Teacher” leading English classes on Saturday morning.

The spread of students was not just restricted to the students geography, with students representing an age range of between 14 and 40 in some classes. But all made their journey and a commitment to their education. Often I pondered how anyone could possibly learn through just one day a week, when the other six days were filled with 10 plus hours a day of work. But it is not a need to learn that draws students each week, it is a deep desire and sense that they can become something more if they do.

I was fortunate enough to not only help with the introductory English classes being taught, but also to participate in their Spanish classes. This was the great leveler, the thing that really made me feel a connection to these people and them to me. It gave us the chance to fail together, to improve together. More importantly it gave the students the opportunity to help me, because it’s not just the people in the developing countries, coming from a developed country we to need help, whether it’s in how to improve our own selves, or how we can learn to help others.

Some of the students who travelled from far and wide to attend class.

Some of the students who traveled from far and wide to attend class.

Always I was reminded of the poverty, the school itself had been flooded only a year before and the classrooms students were working out of were missing parts of their roofs. Whilst I was there I witnessed the students themselves with the help of Alberto, scraping together funds to repair their roofing and then rebuilding it themselves after the classes. This pride in their learning space, not required by anyone but their own desire for a better learning space, said to me much of the honor of the Nicaraguan people at every level of society.

As I’ve mentioned before, although the people I met were all friendly there is no doubt that as with any place if you look or speak to the wrong person the wrong way you can be in trouble. After classes most often we would return with the teach to the hotel where we were staying before it got to late, with rumors of army personnel missing and anti government retribution. One evening however we made a trip further into the wilderness to see a friend of the Alberto.

El Poli - The local meeting place for soccer, and local events, such as a Sandinista rally being held in this photo.

El Poli – The local meeting place for soccer, and local events, such as a Sandinista rally being held in this photo.

On the way back we stopped over at one of the students houses where they were in the process of building a better accommodation. It was whilst we were stopped here that I first saw Las Piedras, and every weekend after I asked about these rocks and how to get there. A natural formation seated looking over the whole region it was surprising I hadn’t seen them earlier, but even more surprising that no one I talked to had visited them.

From this point on reaching those rocks became the one thing I had to do before leaving Nicaragua… TBC

Some Thoughts on Development

By no extent am I an expert, just an ordinary person from Australia who wants to see change in this world.

I’ve only ever travelled with the aim of helping people in developing countries, so far this has taken me to The Philippines, Indonesia and now Nicaragua.

Nicaragua has already been different to the Asian countries and it is allowing me to see some similarities and contrasts which I think are quite interesting.

As such I’d like to share these thoughts in an open space where they can be critiqued and built upon.

Introduction to Social Enterprise – Experiences with GK

In September 2011 I traveled to the slums of Manila, and what I saw there made me overjoyed with the capacity to make change. Here were people living in a garbage heap and inside this setting a group of local, not foreign, local volunteers had built a village for the poorest of the poor, this was my introduction to “nation building”, and within this was something greater, not only were they helping each other to be housed, but they were building hubs founded on social enterprises (SE) to make the change for their community permanent and to bring more up from the bottom line. This was, and this is Gawad Kalinga (GK) in the Philippines.

GK Philippines creates hubs where social enterprises can be developed by both those within and outside of the villages.

GK Philippines creates hubs where social enterprises can be developed by both those within and outside of the villages. One of these is bamboo bikes.

In November 2013 I traveled to the pulsing, overgrown city which is Jakarta, this time I went with the direct intent to see the work of the younger GK entity, Gerakan Kepadulian or GK Indonesia. The difference to GK Philippines was the removal of social enterprise hubs, here was a group that saw the need for each individual community to have it’s own independence, this meant social enterprises are places in each village. More inspiring is the values formation the group does at the foundation meaning that the villages are not reliant on outsiders to start their enterprises, as they have been educated on the vision and determination to be able to do it themselves.

GK Indonesia work with each individual community to help them build new enterprises to build skills and remove reliance on GK volunteers.

GK Indonesia work with each individual community to help them build new enterprises to build skills and remove reliance on GK volunteers.

What these experiences have made very clear is the absolute importance of charity, and of getting rid of it. Because that is the key, charity doesn’t win the fight, it’s not sustainable, and it’s not scalable. As Michael E. Porter put’s it when talking about NGOs “The awkward reality is that we’re not making fast enough progress. We’re not winning.” (you can watch his TED talk here). By using the incentives and drivers of business, SEs help to solve the social issues whilst being scalable to the demand for both the product/service and the fix which the SE provides. The big difference is that now we’re not in it to help, we’re in it to win.